The Staff and the Shell
The staff and shell adorn the outside of the pilgrim’s office in St. Jean Port de Pied.
The pilgrim’s staff and the scallop shell are perhaps the two most recognized symbols of the journey across Spain to Santiago. Each symbolizes a special part of the mythos surrounding St. James the Pilgrim (Santiago Peregrino). The staff, of course, as a representation of the wandering pilgrim and even modern day walkers will use a staff to help them in their travels. More symbolically, perhaps the staff represents the idea that Christianity itself is a pilgrimage.
The shell is a little more mystifying, though just as ubiquitous as a current pilgrim and his walking stick. The scallop shell is used continuously throughout Spain marking the Camino and as a symbol of the pilgrimage itself.
Crossing the Pyrenees and entering into Spain, one is greeted by this mile marker.
Leaving Pamplona, one is guided by these signs embedded into the sidewalks.
But why? Well, these shells that plentiful all along the northwest coast of Spain, where many people end their pilgrimage at Finisterre. Santiago de Compostela itself is only a short distance inland from here. Some say that the shell is a symbol of St. James because this is the area where his remains returned after his death and the scallop is prevalent in this area. Others point to a legend that tells of a knight who nearly drowned in the ocean off the shores of Finisterre. He begged for St. James’ help and floated up from the water to the shore, covered in scallop shells.
Being a bit of a pragmatist, I think it more probable that in centuries gone by when one left their house to walk the camino, one eventually had to return home. They probably brought with them one of these shells they had found at their westward journey’s end, which also may have been useful to help drink from the many fountains along the way on their return trip. Having one of these shells became synonymous with walking the Way, and people began to relate the shell to St. James himself.
Soon, the shell was carried by folks heading toward Santiago as well. A sign to all that they were on a pilgrimage. In St. Jean Port de Pied tourist shops sell these shells by the dozens.
…I know, I got mine…
My kit, complete with walking stick and shell…